Wancher in Wajima: Recovering After the Earthquake

Wancher in Wajima: Recovering After the Earthquake

On January 1, 2024, Japan was struck with a powerful earthquake that was felt throughout the entire country, yet there was no area that felt the impact more than the Noto Peninsula, home to the Urushi (Japanese lacquer) Capital of the World, Wajima City. For over a thousand years, Wajima has been the source of some of the greatest Urushi arts the world has ever seen, and to this day, there are lacquer houses, such as Taya Shikkiten, who have been crafting these national treasures for over ten generations. However, this way of life and the priceless artwork that remained on display in museums and studios throughout the city, was threatened by the earthquake. Entire buildings collapsed, multiple people were injured, and even after the dust and rubble has settled, Wajima has not yet fully recovered. 

For several years, Wancher has had the privilege to share numerous fountain pens, including our flagship True Urushi collection, that have been handcrafted by one of the most renowned Urushi Houses. Sadly, they were not unscathed by the damage, and the earthquake completely destroyed their historic studio, and even after a year, they are still in the process of rebuilding. This is what led us to visit Wajima in order to document the damage, the recovery effort, and raise awareness. 

 

In June, we visited Wajima, which was a bittersweet experience. It was wonderful to see the source of so much art, and to see the heritage all around us, yet the literal cracks in the roads and the buildings heightened a sense of melancholy. All around us, we saw the wreckage of buildings that had yet to be cleared out, as well as houses with the occupants’ sentimental items spilling out from the broken walls and windows. The Noto Earthquake had left an undeniable mark on the entire city, and with it, its people. We had the chance to speak with the Director of Tourism for the city, and we learned that, while the city had never been crowded, it was vibrant with activity from multiple generations. In the wake of the natural disaster, however, over 30% left the city - the majority of whom have yet to return. 

When we asked Master Yamanoshita, the renowned Urushi Raden artisan, about his experience during the earthquake, he said it felt as if his entire house would collapse around him. At the time, he had been in the process of crafting a pen, and his cabinets and tables were destroyed. The main lacquer house of Taya Shikkiten had its walls cave inwards and priceless heirlooms were lost forever. Over a year later, Takahiro Taya - the 10th Generation President of Taya Shikkiten - has built temporary buildings so that the artisans can continue their work in relative peace, but the rebuilding effort is unfinished. The ultimate goal is to revive the industry of Wajima, encouraging people to come flocking back, thus reinvigorating the local economy. 

That is why within a few months of the disaster, the artisans of Taya Shikkiten collaborated with us to create the Wajima Urushi collection to light the spark for Wajima’s revival. Within 48 hours, it was sold-out, not just because of its beautiful design and craftsmanship, but as a testament to the desire from people around the world to help support the community. 

Urushi craftsmanship is a delicate, time consuming artform. A factor as simple as humidity could help create or destroy hours or even days of work. This issue was exacerbated tenfold by the earthquake. When asked why continue to craft in Wajima instead of another city, Takahiro gave a simple answer: “Because then it wouldn’t be Wajima Urushi.” 

It may seem as if one can craft Urushi anywhere on the planet as long as one has the right tools, but it’s important to remember that Urushi is an art, one that is just as connected to the heritage of where it was originally created. Just like a Rolex or a Patek Philippe watch must be crafted in Switzerland to be considered real, the truest form of Wajima Urushi must be crafted there without exception. 

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This visit increased our appreciation for Urushi, and helped us understand our privileged situation, as well. It may seem sentimental, but when we announce the launch of a True Urushi fountain pen, our goal is not just to make a sale. Our goal is for as many people as possible to see the pen, and encourage them to learn more about Urushi. Every single person that appreciates Urushi and how it can enhance the writing experience helps the people of Wajima thrive, whether they are aware of it or not. 

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